Wy/hbs/Priština
Priština (albanski: Prishtinë), glavni grad Kosova, nije konvencionalno ljep na prvi pogled: neuredan je, sa Otomanskim nasljeđem od više stoljeća koji se natječu sa komunističkim oblikovanjem i post-komunističkim arhitektonskim čudovištima. Ipak postoje snažna privlačnost u gradu koji nudi dosta posjetiteljima.
Za razumijeti
[edit | edit source]Kao najmlađi glavni grad u Europi, Priština ima fizičke ostatke starog i novog razdoblja. Nakon brze kampanje modernizacije sredinom 20. stoljeća, veći dio povijesnog središta je uništen i, kao rezultat toga, ostao je samo mali dio. Međutim, među onim što je ostalo ima mnogo skrivenih dragulja, a područja koja su izgubljena zamijenjena su modernim građevinama i spomenicima koji više govore o fascinantnoj novijoj povijesti Kosova nego o bilo kojem drugom vremenskom razdoblju. Dok betonska džungla središta Prištine može biti prilično neodoljiva, postoji mnogo mogućnosti za izlazak u prirodu gradskih parkova i njegovih prekrasnih valovitih periferija, kao i mnoštvo mogućnosti jednostavnih jednodnevnih izleta diljem regije. Duž glavnog bulevara, Rr Nëne Terezë/Ulice Majke Tereze, možete osjetiti opipljivu energiju široke mješavine ljubaznih, gostoljubivih domaćih i međunarodnih stanovnika koji uživaju u užurbanom uličnom životu i živahnoj kulturi kavenisanja koja postoji tijekom dana.
Dođete li navečer, restorani, barovi i noćni klubovi diljem grada ispunjeni su raznolikim posjetiteljima i glazbom, nudeći mnoge mogućnosti, od laganog lokalnog piva s prijateljima do tvrde plesne noći koja može trajati i sljedeći dan. Priština je grad koji voli gotovo stalno ugostiti događaje i festivale, tako da su velike šanse da ćete ušetati u jedinstveno kulturno iskustvo kakvo niste očekivali.
Sporazumijevanje
[edit | edit source]Glavni jezik koji ćete čuti na ulici je albanski. Engleski se dosta govori na prostoru od 3 km² u središtu grada gdje prevladavaju internacionalci i oni koji rade za međunarodne organizacije. Što se više udaljavate od centra, manja je vjerojatnost da ćete čuti engleski govor. No, većina ljudi iz Prištine, pogotovo mladih, bar malo govori engleski ili će rado naći prijatelja koji govori, tako da je malo vjerojatno da ćete imati poteškoća sa snalaženjem.
Kretanje gradom jednostavno je čak i ako ne govorite niti čitate albanski. Središte grada je maleno i po njemu se može hodati (iako pripazite na lude vozače koji često skaču po nogostupima i prolaze kroz raskrižja), a ljudi općenito prihvaćaju komuniciranje na 'polomljenom' albanskom i engleskom. Srpski je drugi službeni jezik Kosova, ali se rijetko čuje na ulicama glavnog grada. Trebali biste moći govoriti srpski u nekim državnim uredima, ali biste ga trebali izbjegavati govoriti u javnosti, osim u srpskim područjima, gdje biste trebali izbjegavati govoriti albanski. Njemački je sljedeći najrasprostranjeniji strani jezik. Veze između dijaspore kosovskih Albanaca u Njemačkoj i Švicarskoj i Kosova vrlo su jake, jer su mnogi stariji kosovski Albanci živjeli i radili u Njemačkoj i Švicarskoj.
Get in
[edit | edit source]By plane
[edit | edit source]Public line 1A bus to and from the airport costs €3 and leaves every 2 hours, 08:00-20:00. Branded taxis to/from Pristina cost €13.
Pristina International Airport works 24/7. It has free limited-time internet access, duty-free stores, special services in the waiting room for business class passengers, a restaurant, three bars for coffee and snack, and parking.
You can fly directly to Pristina from the following airports (some seasonal):
- Antalya, Berlin, Brussels, Basel (Mulhouse), Cologne, Copenhagen, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Friedrichshafen, Gothenburg, Geneva, Hannover, Hamburg, Helsinki, Istanbul (both airports), London, Malmo, Memmingen, Munich, Oslo, Stuttgart, Stockholm, Vienna, Zürich.
By bus
[edit | edit source]There/away by taxi: If you decide to take a taxi from the bus station, try to get the ones that are branded since they have taximeters which starts at €1.50, and overall are cheaper than private ones. A trip to the city center should cost no more than €3. Anything more than this is a ripoff. Some of the drivers will even quote you prices as high as €15.You can negotiate the price with the private ones, and you should agree ahead about the price to your destination.
Coming in Kosovo from the surrounding countries is fairly easy, due to the amount of buses with a regular daily schedule.
Bus from Albania
[edit | edit source]Bus from Tirana: 05:30; 06:00; 07:00; 14:00; 14:30; 15:00; 16:00; 17:00; 17:30; 18:00; 20:00. The ticket price is €10 one way or €15 return and takes at least 4 hours due to the numerous stops.
Bus from Shkodër is at: 17:40; 19:40; and 21:10. The bus actually departs at Ulcinj in Montenegro and stops in the city's outskirts and stops to pick up people up in Shkodër before going onwards to Pristina. The ticket price is between €12-15.
Bus from Bosnia and Herzegovina
[edit | edit source]Bus from Sarajevo runs daily, departing at 22:00, via Novi Pazar, Serbia. At the ticket office in Sarajevo, you have to buy a ticket to Novi Pazar. Don't worry: the same bus continues on to Pristina, so when you get to Novi Pazar, just stay on the bus and tell the ticket person that you want to buy a ticket to Pristina.
Bus from Sarajevo to Novi Pazar (trip takes about 7 and-a-half hours, €15 one-way or €22 with a return ticket - return has to be within a month). When the bus arrives in Novi Pazar at around 05:30, just stay on the same bus and buy the ticket to Pristina (€7 one-way, takes about 3 hours).
Alternatively, take the day bus from Sarajevo to Novi Pazar (Bus departs daily from Sarajevo at 15:00, takes about 7 hours, €15 one-way). Spend the night there and continue on to Pristina the next day (buses depart frequently through the day; buses from Novi Pazar to Skopje, North Macedonia also make stops in Mitrovica and Pristina. This bus stops on the road right outside of the main bus station in Pristina.
Bus from Montenegro
[edit | edit source]Bus from Podgorica runs daily, once a day, starts at 21:30. The ticket price is €16-18.
Bus from Ulcinj is at: 16:00; 18:00; 19:30. The ticket price is €15, one way.
Bus from North Macedonia
[edit | edit source]Bus from Skopje starts at 8:00 and its almost every 30 minutes until the last bus which is at 19:00. (€5, one-way)
Bus from Serbia
[edit | edit source]Bus from Belgrade: 12:00; 16:30; 21:30. The ticket is €15 one way.
Bus from Niš is at: 08:00; 13:45. The ticket is €8-10.
Bus from Novi Pazar (see the section on traveling by bus from Bosnia and Herzegovina)
By train
[edit | edit source]There are trains which travel from North Macedonia and Serbia to Pristina. These take long to get there. See Kosovo#By train
Get around
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- City buses run every 5 minutes on the main central routes (Lines 3 and 4), while other lines run every 15 minutes. The last bus is at 23:30. The cost is €0.40 (2017) and payment is made when you get on the bus so try to have some change. See the map of bus lines or Pristina Buses service although it is in transition, so some of the bus lines have new buses.
- Taxis are readily available with prices starting at €1.50. Make sure to pick a branded taxi since those are metered. No trip around the centre or from the centre to Arbëria, Velania, Sunny Hill (Kodra e Diellit), etc. should cost more than €4. All taxi companies use online communication platforms like Viber and WhatsApp.
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The roads in Pristina (and in general throughout Kosovo) are pretty good, but improvements are still being made. Nevertheless, caution should be made about slow moving vehicles. Traffic is heavy during working hours in Pristina and in the summer when diaspora comes. Sometimes you might get stuck in traffic due to road repairs/improvements. There is a free toll highway from the border with Albania (Morine border crossing) all the way to Pristina, which takes just more than an hour to get too, compared to 3 hours that it used to take.
Apart from the highway to Albania and the modern one to the border with Macedonia, the connection with other cities is fairly close but roads are not well maintained and traffic can be heavy at times.
See
[edit | edit source]Museums and galleries
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- Goddess on the throne is a terracotta figurine found at the site near Pristina in 1956. It represents a well-preserved specimen of small Neolithic plastic Vinca culture (5700–4500 BC). The figurine represents a female deity, reflecting the cult of the great mother idol. One of the most precious archaeological artifacts of Kosovo, it is preserved in the National Museum of the country. The museum and the Municipality of Pristina have adopted the image of the 'Goddess' as the institution’s distinctive logo.
Monuments, historical sites, memorials, public buildings
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Parks
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[edit | edit source]- Walking tour: notable sights found here include a 19th-century Ottoman clock tower, Sahat Kulla, which faces Fatih Mosque, Pristina's largest and most outstanding mosque, which dates back to the 15th century. Nearby you can find two museums definitely worth visiting, the striking yellow Museum of Kosovo, and the Ethnological Museum which is housed in a gorgeous complex of Ottoman-era town homes called Emin Gjiku. Around the neighborhood, you can see street market stalls, kids hawking cigarettes and phone cards, qebabtores and cafes, and the vibrant community life of Kosovo's biggest city. Heading towards the centre you will encounter the main pedestrian boulevard, Rr Nëne Terezë, which runs from the new government building and impressive Skenderberg monument all the way down to Grand Hotel and Zahir Pajaziti Square. For the more modern sights, you don't have to wander too far. The post-independence 'Newborn' monument, altered each Independence Day to represent a different social or political theme, sits directly in front of the curiously designed Boro Ramiz (the Palace of Youth and Sports) and not too far from the renowned statue of Bill Clinton. Arguably the most recognizable structure in Pristina is the avantgarde Yugoslav-era mass of cubes and the domes that is the National Library, often described as one of the ugliest buildings in the world. Directly opposite is the unfinished Serbian Orthodox church which had its construction halted in 1999, and remains subject of much controversy with an uncertain future. If you have more time, it's also worthwhile wandering up into Dragodan/Arberia or Velania (especially City Park, also referred to as "the Italian park," and the park dedicated to now-deceased President Ibrahim Rugova). A walking tour is offered twice a week from one of three hostels in the city; Buffalo Backpackers, Han Hostel and The White Tree Hostel.
- Korza: in the evenings, when it's warm, a large proportion of the population heads out into the streets and promenades, between cafes or in with no particular destination. The objective is to see and be seen, chat with friends, and take in as much fresh air as possible before the horrific winter descends. 53% of Kosovo's population is under the age of 25, so most of the people on the street around dusk are teenagers and people in their early twenties. Being in one of the poorest countries in Europe, some Kosovars struggle to afford nights out and meals in restaurants. Instead, they get dressed up in their best clothes and walk up and down Rr Nëne Terezë. Join them, or if you prefer, grab a beer or coffee in an outdoor cafe and watch them go by.
- Stay out late because the streets are safe and Albanians love foreigners. Also go out to bars and such, as they are usually filled but make sure you drink some "Peja" beer (Key word PEJA)
- Privately owned outdoor swimming pools are springing up around Kosovo, some just outside the city and worth the euro to cool off in the summer.
- Watch football: Fadil Vokrri Stadium, capacity 13,500, in city centre, hosts Kosovo's national soccer team. It's also the home ground of Pristina FC, who play in Football Superleague of Kosovo, the country's top tier: they often win it and qualify for European competitions.
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Festivals
[edit | edit source]Kosovo's festival scene is on the rise throughout the Balkans. There are many festivals that take place throughout the year in Pristina. New festivals are also popping up all of the time. If you are planning to travel to Pristina it is a great idea to see if any of the major festivals are happening throughout your stay. The most popular festivals in Pristina are centered on music, art and alcohol. The most up-to-date information for festivals can be found on their Facebook page
- Sunny Hill Festival An international music festival organized by Sunny Hill Foundation taking place in Gërmia Park since 2018. The 3-day festival occurs in early August and hosts big names in the modern music industry, such as: Miley Cyrus, Calvin Harris, Martin Garrix, Dua Lipa, etc.
- Beer and Wine Festival, Usually takes place at the end of June on the platform behind “Newborn” monument. The Beer and Wine Festival is set up with several booths selling local and international beers at low prices. The festival has two large music stages and gets quite lively late at night. It can sometimes be difficult with queues but once you get in there is plenty of space for everyone to have a good time.
- PriFilm fest, Multiple stages around town. +383 38 221 144. PriFilm Fest is one of Pristina's most famous international film festivals. The festival is set up with multiple screening locations around town. PriFilm Fest presents the city with many first time premieres in Kosovo and world premieres. The quality of films that are shown are quite remarkable. The festival is also known for their after parties.
- Erdhlezeti, Fazli Grajcevci across from Dit e Nat bar. This annual block party music festival takes place in the parking lot across from the well known café Dit' e Nat'. This festival is dedicated to music, the change of seasons and especially to the arrival of Summer. Beer, barbecue and love are the other ingredients that make this day special. It is a favourite with bands playing live into the night.
- Visions of Beyond (hapesira), Kalaja e Harilaqit. Visions of Beyond is festival that combines techno music with cultural heritage. The festival takes place yearly at a fortress on one of the small mountains overlooking Pristina. The organizers bring in up-and-coming DJs from Western Europe that transport us to a new place and time.
- Turkish Jazz Week. Turkish Jazz Week (typically during the month of May) brings together Turkish and Kosovar musicians to serenade us with their beautiful sounds for a week long every year.
- NO RECESS. NO RECESS is the newest arts platform in Pristina, Kosovo, spontaneously launched but aiming to become a sustainable, long-term project. NO RECESS Live Music Festival is a 7-day event that will bring seven live performances (one each night of the festival) by international and local alternative music artists.
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Buy
[edit | edit source]- Shopping-wise, Pristina is full of good bargains but low on selection. Silver is sold in the old quarter and is a pretty good value; Albanians are known throughout the former Yugoslavia as silversmiths.
- The outdoor bookstalls adjacent to the Grand Hotel are a good place to pick up your copy of the Code of Lekë Dukagjini. Or a map of Pristina that most likely has names for all the streets no one has ever heard of.
- Also on the streets: CDs and DVDs that are cheap, and more likely than not, illegal.
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Eat
[edit | edit source]There are a variety of restaurants with something for everyone's taste. Radio taxi drivers will know the location of most major restaurants frequented by internationals. Try a traditional qebabtore (you can find one anywhere), or a Turkish doner shop (best ones around the corner from Payton Place, near UNDP) for a real taste of the local food and great value. If you are a foreigner you may have to do a fair bit of pointing to order, but it should be worth it.
Budget
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Mid-range
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Splurge
[edit | edit source]Drink
[edit | edit source]Pristina is a destination known for the experience it provides. A massive part of that experience will be sightseeing the many cafés and bars that have diverse yet stylish interiors around town. The nightlife and festival scene in Pristina has improved rapidly in the past two years and is predominantly known for techno music. Whilst visiting Pristina you will not go thirsty, thanks to the variety of local, low cost delights. The water is clear and safe to drink in Pristina. As a foreigner, you will not have a problem drinking water from the tap, but if you prefer bottled water there are 13 local water brands for you to consume.
A unique quality of Pristina is the passion behind the coffee culture, and emphasis on the craft of making espresso-based coffee. Internationals have assisted in spreading the word about how delicious the macchiato are in cafés around town. Kosovo baristas and patrons have high expectations for how well coffee is made and care put into producing each cup for the city that loves to drink coffee. The Kosovo macchiato can be described as stronger, shorter latte (or a flat white to those from down under) and is served either small (similar to a piccolo) or large (a regular size).
Pristina's bars and cafés stock some of the best local spirits produced around the country. The most common local beer that you will find around town is Peja. Peja beer is an easy to drink lager made in the west of Kosovo. Other local beers you can find around town are Pristina, Greembeer and Sabaja. Sabaja is the only local craft brewery in Kosovo. Most wine produced in Kosovo comes from in and around Rahovec in the south west of Kosovo. Local wines have improved over time and you are often served a heavy pour for a fair price at most cafes and bars. Wine marketing is still up and coming in Kosovo, so when you order at a bar it is regular practice to order in a general fashion; red, white or rose. Don't let this discourage you from asking the waiter about the wine options they have at their establishment. Most establishments will stock a variety. Rajika (Raki), local homemade brandy, is served at most cafes and bars around town. Raki (singular form) is served in a shot glass and meant to be sipped and enjoyed. It can be made from various fruits and nuts, however the most popular varieties you can find in Pristina bars are grape, pear, apple and quince.
In addition to the wide variety of cafes and bars you can find around town, you also have constant events happening on the main boulevard, such as a Christmas market in November or December serving mulled wine and warm spiced rum every day and night. It is worth taking a wander throughout the boulevard during your stay as Pristina is famous in the region for the constant pop-up festivals that occur. These include fresh fruit and vegetable markets, coffee and tea festival, wine and local craft festivals and more, all taking place on the main boulevard throughout the year.
Most locals refer to Pristina's café/bar scene by splitting it up into four main areas/roads lined with bars and cafes open daily from 08:00-00:00. These four main streets are in the city center perpendicular to the main pedestrian boulevard.
Four areas
[edit | edit source]- ABC street (Rr. Rexhep Luci) in the heart of the city center with ABC Cinema at the top of the street. The street is lined with cafés and bars most of which serve food.
- Pishat street (Rr. Qamil Hoxha) is off the main boulevard in the center of Pristina. This street has several cafés with vibrant interiors and a famous traditional restaurant at the top.
- Kafe e Vogel street (Rr. Fehmi Agani) is lined with expat-focused restaurants on one side and local, chill cafés on the other end. At the top of this well-known café/bar street in town you will also find an English pub (Back Garden Pub) with a pub quiz every Thursday night.
- Raki Street (Rr. 2 Korriku) is the most frequented street in town Kosovo's youth. This street is happening during the day just a few small tavernas on each side serving local grilled cuisine. During the evenings (especially Wednesday, Friday and Saturday) the street is full of young people hanging out, drinking and people watching. This street is famous for its variety of low cost, local raki and delicious low cost grilled meats.
Cafes and bars
[edit | edit source]When you are strolling around town in Pristina you will see a variety of combination cafes/bars/restaurants. It is quite typical for most establishments to serve food although some only have drink menus. The majority of cafes/bars that you see are open daily (with the exception of Sundays for about half) from 08:00-00:00. The majority serves coffee, soda, juice, beer, wine, raki and basic spirits. It is recommended to experience multiple cafes/bars during your stay in Pristina. You will find the wait staff to be friendly and almost always you can find someone that speaks English to help you out. The best way to find the location and events for each bar/café is to use their Facebook pages.
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- Marcus Coffee Shop, Rr. Bajram Kelmendi. +383 44 900078. M-Sa 07:00 – 23:00; Su 09:00-17:00. Marcus Coffee Shop serves locally roasted beans which are also available for sale in-house. Producing both Turkish and espresso-based styles of coffee, the staff will happily chat about the origins of their blends. Owner Gazmend Hoxha is passionate about coffee and takes pride in his endeavors to produce a locally roasted, high quality product.
- Miqt Pub,Rr. Fehmi Agani +383 49677111. Daily 08:00-00:00. Cozy and cool interior that feels more like a proper expat pub, however it is frequented by locals. The garden is decorated with artwork and neon lights that give it an inviting feel by night. The pub has a full bar and menu with local prices and the staff is friendly and helpful. The pub hosts regular events and DJs in the evening. It is a great central place to relax or start your night before hitting the clubs. In 2021 the pub changed management.
- Te P (Johnny's), Rexhep Mala, Daily from 20:00-02:00. Te P, formally known as Johnny's, is a small hole in the wall bar in the neighborhood behind the library. It is well known and well visited by locals. The interior is decorated with photos of famous musicians and the proprietor is friendly, speaks English and will serve you drinks while playing his favorite rock, funk and new-age artists.
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Clubs and festivals
[edit | edit source]Pristina's nightlife is on the rise and becoming one of Europe's leading capitals for techno music. Although Pristina is known for its techno music you can experience an array of talented artists from genres such as traditional, jazz, rock, popular, rap, new age and more. For live music Pristina offers constant cool jazz scenes for you to enjoy and jam sessions to delight! Throughout the region, Pristina has a reputation for the amount of festivals that take place and are created each year. If you are interested in experiencing some of the best electronic music offered in Pristina exhibited through pop up parties throughout the year follow the promotion company Hapesira. The employees at Hapesira are the front-runners of the electronic music scene in Pristina. Pristina's club scene varies from casual Berlin style parties to classy, well-dressed establishments. Although small, the city gives off the vibe that it has something for everyone if you just know where to go. For up-to-date information on events at each club please refer to their Facebook pages.
Clubs
[edit | edit source]- Zanzi Jazz Bar, Fehmi Agani, M–Sa 22:00–04:00; Sunday closed. Zanzi Jazz bar is in a basement right off of the main pedestrian boulevard. The bar has live music every night. If you're looking for a bar where you can dance all night long to music other then techno, Zanzi is the place to be in town. The house band performs covers songs of hits from around the world. Every Monday Zanzi has an open mic night and karaoke with a live band.
- Zone Club, (Summer Warehouse) Fushe Kosovo Industrial zone. W F Sat 23:00–06:00. (Winter location) Rruga Garibaldi. W F Sa 23:00–06:00. +383 45 222 284. Zone Club is one of the most popular clubs in Pristina. The club is open year-round with two different locations offering you techno, rap and pop DJs from around Kosovo and abroad. The winter location is in the heart of the city center and has multiple levels. The summer location is in an abandoned warehouse in the industrial zone right outside of Pristina. Each location offer endless nights of dancing until sunrise.
- 13 Rooftop, Top of the Grand Hotel, W F Sa 23:00–05:00, +383 45 628 628. 13 Rooftop is in the city center at the top of the Grand Hotel. It is Pristina's first Rooftop Lounge Bar overlooking a 360-degree view of Pristina's skyline. 13 Rooftop has two connected venues: a fully enclosed ‘Penthouse Lounge’ and a fully outfitted ‘Sway Bar/Club.’ Additionally, it also encloses 4 outdoor Rooftop Gardens, each with a different view of the city, and 1 outdoor heated smoking venue. There is typically a cover charge for men.
- Duplex Premium, Luan Haradinaj, W F Sa 23:00–04:00. +383 44 555 585. Duplex club is a slightly pretentious but staple club in Pristina. The club fills up throughout the year and is styled for Pristina's pop and rap scene. The club does have a dress code so be sure to look smart when you go.
- Dicka po zihet, Rruga Garibaldi, +383 49 861 900. On the side of the building next to the basketball stadium that says “Prince Coffee” on top. The bar/club has Latin nights every Monday. The patrons are typically some of Pristina's richer clientele with drink prices to match.
Sleep
[edit | edit source]Accommodation can be very expensive in Pristina, as everything is tailored for internationals on expense accounts and hefty per diems. If you look around you should be able to find fliers offering accommodation. If you can find these places, go there as the cost is usually €10-15 per night.
Budget
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Splurge
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Stay safe
[edit | edit source]In the Dardania neighbourhood (the residential blocks between the bus station and the centre), be careful when the beggar children are around: they may follow you for a while, speaking (presumably in Albanian), and may just come too suspiciously close to your bag and pockets behind you in the meantime.
Pristina is rebuilding, and some of the city roads now are new, but if you are driving, you still must be on the lookout for large potholes.
Cope
[edit | edit source]Embassies
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[edit | edit source]- Gjakova – The western Kosovan city with the largest Ottoman-era bazaar in the Balkans, is 89 km, 90 minutes and €4 away by bus.
- Prizren – Can be interesting. Buses depart from the bus terminal or you could hire a taxi for the day.
- Gračanica – Nearby, and can be arranged by taxi for roughly €5 from near Albi Mall.
- Novo_Brdo - rural area with diverse food and activities
- Skopje (North Macedonia) – The capital city is only a two-hour bus ride from town, buses depart regularly from the bus station. The trip will cost €5, or €10 using the Skopje airport shuttle.